Bullaun stone, Brockagh, Co. Wicklow
Co. Wicklow |
Holy Sites & Wells
In a field north of St Kevin's Road in Brockagh, County Wicklow, nine granite boulders sit scattered across the ground, between them holding thirteen basins, worn or pecked into the stone surfaces.
These are bullauns, a type of rock feature found widely across early medieval Ireland, consisting of rounded depressions cut or ground into boulders, often associated with early Christian sites and frequently filled with rainwater that local tradition held to have curative or ritual significance. What makes this particular grouping unusual is partly its density, and partly the way it has been remembered locally. Four of the boulders are clustered together and known collectively as the "Seven Fonts", a name that suggests a long-running, if arithmetically inventive, folk tradition attached to the site.
The association with St Kevin places the stones within the orbit of the Glendalough monastic landscape, one of the most significant early Christian complexes in Ireland. St Kevin's Road is itself a historic pilgrimage route through the Wicklow Mountains. An Ordnance Survey six-inch map marks a point roughly a hundred metres to the northwest as "Thornbush (site of), St Kevin's Keeve", a keeve being an old word for a tub or vessel, which gives some sense of how the water-holding basins were understood and named by those who used the route. One of the boulders is earthfast, meaning it is fixed in the ground and may in fact be bedrock projecting through the turf, partially overgrown, with a single water-filled basin visible. Paddy Healy, writing in 1972, recorded a bullaun in the same field, describing a boulder measuring roughly 1.8 metres by 1.3 metres, with two basins approximately 18 centimetres apart. Whether that stone and the partially buried earthfast boulder are the same is unresolved; the sod cover may simply be concealing a second basin from view.
The stones sit in open farmland, and the grass and turf encroaching over some of the boulders is a reminder that this kind of site is easy to walk past without quite registering what you are looking at. The basins themselves are modest in scale, each roughly 30 centimetres across and 16 centimetres deep according to Healy's measurements, so closer to shallow cups than dramatic hollows. The water that collects in them tends to persist, which is part of what made them meaningful to pilgrims travelling the old road toward Glendalough.