Caherconree, Ballyarkane Oughter, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Forts
Most promontory forts in Ireland cling to sea cliffs, using the Atlantic as their outer wall.
Cathair Chonraoi does something stranger: it takes the same defensive logic and applies it to a mountain spur in the Slieve Mish range, sitting at roughly 625 metres above sea level on the Dingle Peninsula. The roughly triangular spur is naturally sheer along its northwest and southwest sides, and whoever built the fort needed only to close off the more vulnerable eastern approach, which they did with a drystone wall 110 metres long, up to 4.5 metres thick, and still standing in places to 3 metres in height. Where the inner face is best preserved, it rises in three steps toward the top. Two simple entrance gaps break the wall, and four or five small D-shaped or sub-rectangular structures are pressed against its inner face, surviving now as depressions edged with collapsed stone. The enclosed area amounts to about 2 acres, and on a clear day the view reaches Loop Head to the north, the Blasket Islands to the west, and Macgillycuddy's Reeks to the south and east.
The fort takes its name from Cú Raoi Mac Daire, the legendary figure said to have built it. The story attached to the place is a striking one: Cú Raoi defeated and humiliated the hero Cúchulainn, and carried off a woman named Blathnad. She later helped Cúchulainn take his revenge by pouring milk into a stream, turning the water white as a signal for him to attack, and Cú Raoi was killed. The wall itself acquired a more prosaic administrative role over time, forming part of the boundary between the baronies of Corkaguiney and Trughanacmy, a line continued southward by a later, narrower wall where the original structure ends. A stone trough that once sat somewhere within or near the site was removed in the early nineteenth century and eventually ended up in a house near Killorglin, where it reportedly remains.
The ascent to Cathair Chonraoi is a serious hill walk rather than a casual stroll, given the altitude and the exposed terrain of the western Slieve Mish. The wall's collapsed southwestern section is largely a low rubble scatter, but the northern portion still shows its stepped inner face and the outer fosse, a shallow external ditch cut about 8 to 10 metres out from the wall, which hints at how carefully the eastern approach was once layered with obstacles.