Toberchreest, Coolmagort, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Holy Sites & Wells
In a patch of woodland near the western bank of the River Loe, a tributary of the Laune in south Kerry, a small stone dome rises barely above head height.
Roughly built, 1.52 metres tall and 1.6 metres across, it shelters a shallow, slab-lined holy well at its base, topped now by a modern iron cross. The well goes by two names, Tobar Críosta, the Well of Christ, and St Brigid's Well, a dual identity that is itself quietly curious. A metre to the east of the dome lies a thin carved slab, measuring just 37 by 31 centimetres, with crosses cut into both of its faces. One side carries a small Latin cross with expanded terminals, the kind where the arms flare outward at their ends, along with the letters J, W and D incised beneath it. The other face holds a larger version of the same form. Who carved it, and when, is not recorded.
The well drew pilgrims on Good Friday, when rounds were formerly made here, a pattern of devotional circuits that involved walking or moving around the well on one's knees while reciting prayers. A tradition collected from Cullenagh Upper School captures something of the local understanding of the place: the water was considered a cure for blindness, and visitors were expected to leave something behind as part of the ritual. The account notes, with an appealing vagueness, that it involved leaving 'something behind or something like that.' The well also had a reputation of a different kind. Locally, it was said that a magical trout lived in its waters, a belief that appears in an unpublished manuscript by Hitchcock held in the Royal Irish Academy. Such trout are a recurring figure in Irish holy well tradition, often understood as guardians or as embodiments of the well's power, seen by some as an omen and by others simply as proof that the water was alive in some meaningful sense.
The well sits in the Coolmagort townland near Dunlo, within the broader landscape of the Iveragh Peninsula. Visitors approaching through the woodland should look for the dome structure rather than any obvious marker; the carved slab lying to its east is easy to overlook. Good Friday remains, in the older tradition at least, the day most closely associated with the site.