Saint Patrick's Well, Carrowndangan, Co. Mayo
Co. Mayo |
Holy Sites & Wells
Most holy wells in Ireland mark a natural spring, the water emerging from the ground as proof of sacred presence.
The one in a pasture at Carrowndangan worked differently. What sits in the field is a low, sod-covered mound of earth and stone, roughly six to seven and a half metres across and only about sixty centimetres high, with a shallow hollow at its centre. No water rises from below; according to local tradition, the well's water gathered instead in the basin of a bullaun stone, a large rock with a deliberately carved or worn hollow, which sat just below ground level and appears to have been built around at some point. Bullaun stones are found at early medieval religious sites across Ireland, their cup-shaped depressions associated variously with healing, cursing, and ritual use. The idea that this hollow, with no spring to feed it, was said to be always full of water is what gives the place its quietly peculiar character.
A description recorded by Knox in 1902 captures the site before it changed significantly. The stone hollow was oval, measuring seventeen inches by fifteen inches and seven inches deep, and Knox noted that it had the appearance of having been deliberately enclosed. Local people told him that stations, the traditional penitential rounds of prayer common to Irish holy well devotion, used to be held here, with wooden crosses marking the route from the well and around a nearby rath before returning. A rath is a circular earthwork enclosure, usually of early medieval date, used as a farmstead, and the one at Carrowndangan sits about forty metres to the north-west. The pairing of holy well and rath is not unusual in the Irish landscape, though the ritual circuit linking the two is a detail worth noting. The well appears by name on Ordnance Survey maps from both 1838 and 1919, suggesting it retained local significance well into the twentieth century. When the site was inspected in 1998, however, the bullaun stone could no longer be found in the central hollow of the mound, leaving only the earthwork itself as evidence of what was once there.