Glenstal Abbey, Moroe, Co. Limerick
Co. Limerick |
Main Houses
Look closely at the stonework around Glenstal's grandest doorway and you find a pattern more at home in a twelfth-century cathedral than a nineteenth-century country house: chevrons, carved figures, and a round-headed arch copied from the portal at Killaloe Cathedral in County Clare.
It is an odd thing to find on a building that is, structurally, a castellated Victorian mansion complete with gatehouse, circular angle tower, and castellated parapets. That combination, medieval Irish ornament wrapped around an essentially Anglo-Norman military silhouette, is what makes the building unusual among the Norman Revival houses of its era; most such houses borrowed wholesale from English or Scottish baronial models, whereas this one deliberately folds in Irish Romanesque carving alongside the imported style.
The house was built between 1836 and 1839 by the English architect William Bardwell for Sir Matthew Barrington, and its architectural agenda seems to have been to fuse two distinct medieval traditions, the castle-building of Anglo-Norman England and the church-carving tradition of early Irish Romanesque, into a single building. The Killaloe doorway copy is the clearest expression of that idea, and a comparable doorway was made at the same period for Adare Manor, suggesting Barrington and his contemporaries were drawing on a shared repertoire of Irish medieval motifs for their new gentry houses. The defensive vocabulary is equally deliberate rather than functional: the gatehouse, the castellated walls, and the large circular tower to the west, tall enough to have served as a keep in an actual medieval castle, are dressed in the language of fortification without ever needing to fortify anything. In 1927, the building's function shifted entirely when Benedictine monks from Maredsous Abbey in Belgium established a monastery here at Murroe, turning a private demonstration of antiquarian taste into a religious community, and the house has since operated as a school.
Walking the exterior, the carving repays close attention rather than a quick glance. The round-headed opening on the north-east elevation carries decorative hoodmouldings, flanking sandstone columns, and carved statues around a heavy timber door with cast-iron fittings, while a second doorway on the south-west elevation uses a sawtooth motif cut into the sandstone surround, a zigzag pattern typical of Romanesque decoration. The circular west tower and its adjoining octagonal turret retain cross-shaped arrow slits in the parapet, a genuinely defensive detail turned ornamental, and a bipartite window below, with paired round arches divided by a slender stone column and an oculus above, shows the same care given to a purely domestic opening as to the grand entrances.
