Religious house - Cistercian monks, Tubbrid, Co. Cork

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Religious house – Cistercian monks, Tubbrid, Co. Cork

The Cistercian abbey of Tracton has effectively ceased to exist as a place, yet its carved stonework keeps turning up across County Cork, in churchyards, private gardens, and museum display cases, scattered like the aftermath of a very slow explosion.

Where the abbey church once stood, a Church of Ireland building erected in 1819 now occupies the ground. The rest of the two-acre site has been given over to a concrete farmyard and a silage pit. What survives in any meaningful sense is a collection of about twenty stone fragments, including window surrounds, door mouldings, and a remarkable grave slab, lying in what was once a garden and is now largely overgrown.

Tracton was founded in 1225 by Odo de Barry and colonised from the Welsh Cistercian abbey of Whitland, making it part of a network of daughter houses that Whitland planted across Ireland and Wales during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. The abbey was suppressed in 1640 to 1641, by which point it had already effectively become a working farm; jurors at the suppression reported that the church had served as a parish church from time immemorial and that the other buildings on the site were in use by the resident farmer. The Daunt family had occupied the remains for two generations before pulling them down in the seventeenth century and building a new house, almost certainly using the abbey's own dressed stone as raw material. Early in the twentieth century, a Mr Coveney trenched the garden of Tracton Abbey house, which abuts the south side of the Church of Ireland building, and uncovered quantities of carved stonework, including chamfered arch heads, column sections, and broken window mullions. From the recovered archivolt and voussoir fragments, he managed to reconstruct a small pointed arch consistent with a sedilia (a set of recessed seats used by clergy during Mass), a round-headed arch that may have framed a founder's tomb, and one large pointed arch seven feet wide. The grave slab that remains on site is trapezoidal in form, now standing upright with its narrow end buried in the ground, though it originally lay flat. It is carved with an eight-armed ringed cross with fleur-de-lis terminals and geometric designs flanking the shaft, and is probably of fourteenth or fifteenth century date.

The stonework that survived Coveney's excavations did not stay together. A moulded stone basin from the site is now in the grounds of Minane Bridge Roman Catholic church. A further group of fragments, including the ogee-head of a window light, an ornamental pointed form characteristic of late medieval Gothic work, can be found at Ardbrack near Kinsale. Another collection is held at a house in Kinsale formerly owned by the Daunt family. Most arresting of all the dispersed pieces is a sheela-na-gig, a carved stone figure of a type found on medieval Irish churches and associated with a range of apotropaic and fertility traditions, which is now held at Cork Public Museum.

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