Children's burial ground, Eskeromullacaun, Co. Galway
Co. Galway |
Burial Grounds
On the east-facing slope of an esker ridge in north County Galway, there is a place that exists almost entirely in local memory.
The ground here forms a natural amphitheatre, the long sinuous ridge curving around the site as though sheltering it, but there is nothing visible to see. No stones, no markers, no trace on the surface at all. The vegetation has closed over whatever was once here, and only the knowledge passed down through the surrounding community identifies this as a children's burial ground.
Children's burial grounds, known in Irish as cilliní, were used across Ireland for centuries to inter unbaptised infants and others considered, under Catholic doctrine, ineligible for consecrated ground. They occupy a particular and melancholy category of archaeological site, often situated at liminal places in the landscape: old ringforts, ancient mounds, shorelines, or, as here, the natural features of an esker. An esker is a long winding ridge of gravel and sand deposited by meltwater streams flowing beneath glaciers during the last ice age, and they are a notable feature of the Galway midlands. The choice of such a landform for a cilliní may reflect older habits of mind about edges and boundaries, places that belonged neither fully to the living world nor entirely outside it. The specific name Eskeromullacaun contains within it the Irish word for esker, preserving that geological and cultural identity in the placename itself.
No formal archaeological investigation appears to have been carried out here, and the site survives only through local oral tradition. The overgrowth that now covers the slope means there is genuinely nothing for a visitor to observe on the ground, and the place is perhaps best understood as a kind of knowledge rather than a monument, a site where the landscape holds something that the landscape itself no longer shows.