Children's burial ground, Oileán An Phocáin, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Burial Grounds
On a small island off the Kerry coast, a low mound of earth and stone marks the kind of place that appears on few itineraries and fewer maps.
This is a calluragh, the Irish term for an unbaptised children's burial ground, a category of site found across Ireland wherever the Catholic doctrine that unbaptised infants could not be interred in consecrated ground left families with nowhere official to turn. These liminal spaces, often ancient, often repurposed, sit at the edges of parishes and communities in more ways than one. The one on Oileán An Phocáin is unusual even among its kind, because it is not simply a patch of ground; it incorporates the remains of a substantial clochán at its western end.
A clochán is a dry-stone beehive hut, a form of construction with deep roots in early medieval Ireland and particularly associated with the monastic and hermetic traditions of the Atlantic coast. The one here is roughly circular, about six metres in diameter, with walls surviving to around 1.3 metres in height internally. Its entrance, facing south-east, is just over a metre wide. What makes the structure more complicated is that the masonry is not uniform: there is a clear difference between the northern and southern halves of the building, suggesting the northern section was rebuilt at some point, though when and by whom is not recorded. The mound itself stretches some 21 metres east to west and 12 metres north to south, rising to a modest 1.5 metres at its highest point, and quartz stones are visible on its surface. Quartz has long carried ritual significance in Irish prehistoric and early Christian contexts, and its presence here, whether placed deliberately or simply gathered from the landscape, adds another layer of ambiguity to a site whose full story remains unclear. The precise relationship between the clochán and the burial mound has not been established, and it is that unresolved quality, the sense of two different histories overlapping without quite explaining each other, that gives the place its particular character.