Church, Ballyman, Co. Dublin
Co. Dublin |
Churches & Chapels
A graveslab repurposed as the lintel of a small wall niche is the kind of detail that stops you in your tracks.
At Ballyman, in a quiet valley on the southern fringes of County Dublin, the ruined church of Glen Munire preserves exactly that: an aumbry, a shallow recess built into the east gable to hold liturgical vessels, capped with a recycled grave marker. It is a small, telling oddity in what is otherwise a modest scatter of old granite masonry sitting on a south-facing slope above the north bank of the County Brook.
The site carries a considerable amount of history for something so unassuming in scale. This was originally an Early Christian foundation dedicated to St. Sillan, attached to the great monastic city of Glendalough some distance to the south in County Wicklow. It was known as the church of Glen Munire, and the valley setting still feels appropriately remote. By the early fourteenth century, however, the church had passed into rather different hands: it appears in records listing the possessions of the Knights Templars at the time of their dissolution, a process that unfolded across Europe between 1307 and 1312 as the order was suppressed by papal decree. That a small rural chapel in the Dublin hills should have been among Templar holdings is not well known, and the connection gives the place an unexpectedly layered biography. The site remained enclosed, in the sense of being bounded within a formal ecclesiastical enclosure, until as late as 1850.
The ruins themselves are fragmentary but legible. The east gable stands to its full height and retains the round-headed east window, which sits beneath a segmental arch; the south wall survives in part, and there is a splayed ope, an angled window opening designed to admit more light than a straight-sided one, at its western end. The north wall is reduced to foundation level. The masonry throughout is roughly coursed granite, which fits the local geology. The site lies within an ecclesiastical enclosure, the boundary of which is recorded separately. The valley bottom location means the approach is low-lying rather than elevated, which distinguishes it from many Irish early church sites that occupy prominent ridges or hillocks. It rewards careful attention to the stonework rather than any dramatic prospect.
