Clochan, Gualainn, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Settlement Sites
On the southern slopes of Croaghskearda in County Kerry, a small stone structure has effectively vanished into the ground it once stood on.
A clochaun, the Irish term for a dry-stone corbelled hut of early medieval origin, was recorded here within the interior of a bivallate rath, a roughly circular earthwork enclosure defended by two banks and ditches. These enclosures are common across the Irish landscape, but the combination of a clochaun and a souterrain, an underground stone-lined passage typically used for storage or refuge, within the same enclosure offers a glimpse of a settlement that was once genuinely layered in its organisation and use.
When a surveyor named Curran recorded the clochaun, it measured 13 feet, or roughly 4 metres, in diameter, a modest but not untypical size for such structures. By the time J. Cuppage conducted the Dingle Peninsula archaeological survey, published in 1986 as part of the Corca Dhuibhne survey, the clochaun was no longer visible above ground. What remained were stony mounds in the rath's interior, one of which probably conceals its collapsed remains. The rath itself sits in poorly-drained pastureland, the kind of soggy, marginal ground that early farmers often chose precisely because it was less contested and offered natural defensive advantages.
There is something quietly melancholy about a structure recorded, measured, and then lost between one survey and the next. The site at Gualainn does not offer dramatic masonry or a well-preserved interior; what it offers is the faint outline of occupation, a ring of banks in wet grass, a mound that might be a wall, a passage beneath the soil that has not been fully investigated. For anyone walking the slopes of Croaghskearda, the rath is the thing most likely to register, its earthworks still legible even where the buildings inside them are not.