Cloghan, Cill Éinne, Co. Galway
Co. Galway |
Settlement Sites
Near the tiny early Christian church of Teampall Bheanáin on Inis Mór, a cluster of stone cells sits in varying states of survival, each one quietly different from its neighbours.
Clochans, the small corbelled or drystone huts associated with early monastic life in Ireland, are common enough on the Aran Islands, but this particular grouping is notable for what excavation has drawn out of it: not just ancient stonework, but evidence of a building used, rebuilt, and adapted over centuries in ways that complicate any simple reading of the site as a relic of a single distant era.
The three structures vary considerably. The first, just five metres north-northeast of Teampall Bheanáin, is a rectangular cell roughly three metres long and one and a half metres wide, with two of its walls formed not from laid stone but from the natural rock face itself, the builders working with the limestone rather than against it. About fifty metres to the north-northwest stands a more complex drystone building, excavated by Manning in 1985, which proved to have been constructed in three distinct phases. Originally a small square structure, approximately 2.9 metres across, with a doorway facing east and a window to the north, it was later extended by an annexe measuring 2.7 by 2.2 metres, and both elements were eventually enclosed within an outer sheltering wall. Pottery recovered from the dig dated to the seventeenth century, suggesting the building remained in some form of use well into the post-medieval period. A third feature, around 125 metres to the northwest, is now a substantial cairn of collapsed stone, twelve metres long and nearly seven metres wide, with traces of original inner wall facing still visible. The Ordnance Survey Letters, compiled by O'Flanagan in 1927 drawing on nineteenth-century fieldwork, identify this mound as a clochan, though its current form gives little away.
The structures sit close to one of the smallest churches in Ireland, Teampall Bheanáin, which is itself worth pausing over. The proximity of the clochans to that church fits a pattern common to early Irish monasticism, where small oratories and individual cells were arranged loosely around a central focus of worship rather than in any formal enclosed precinct. What the pottery from the excavated building suggests is that the life of this place did not end with the early medieval period, even if its character changed considerably in the centuries that followed.