Cloghauns, Cathair Deargáin Thuaidh, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Ringforts
A cashel, roughly circular and roughly thirty metres across, sits on a levelled terrace near the western tip of the Dingle Peninsula, its enclosing wall rising higher on the downhill north-west side than on the uphill side simply because the ground falls away beneath it.
That detail alone hints at the practical intelligence behind early medieval drystone construction. Within the enclosure stand five clocháns, the beehive-shaped corbelled huts characteristic of this corner of Kerry, where courses of unmortared stone are laid so that each ring slightly overhangs the one below until the opening at the top can be closed with a single slab. Three of the huts are conjoined, running roughly north to south through the centre of the cashel and connecting through low lintelled doorways, some barely half a metre wide. One of the three may never have been roofed at all, functioning instead as an open courtyard; its walls are corbelled like the others, but its footprint is considerably larger and its outline less regular.
Beneath two of the huts run souterrains, the underground passages dug or built in early medieval Ireland for storage or concealment. One, tucked into the thickness of a hut wall, extends less than a metre before it is blocked. The other, accessed from the base of a wall in the southernmost hut, runs about two metres westward under the wall and a metre eastward under the floor, its walls a mixture of drystone and compacted earth. The cashel sits immediately east of the Saint's Road, the old pilgrimage route that climbs Brandon Mountain, and about six hundred metres south of the early church site at Kilmalkedar. By the mid-nineteenth century, antiquarians including Windele in 1848 and Westropp in 1902 were already recording the site, and their accounts diverge not only from each other but from what stands today. Wall thicknesses described as between 2.7 and 3.9 metres in those earlier visits now measure considerably less, suggesting that inner wall faces have been rebuilt and collapse cleared away at some point. A grass-grown mound along the south sector of the enclosure wall may still conceal the original inner face.
The site is accessible via a modern stile at the south-east. The entrance gap recorded by Westropp is no longer visible. What a visitor will find is an enclosure compact enough to read clearly from the ground, where the relationship between the conjoined huts, the wall, and the surrounding landscape of the north Dingle Peninsula can be taken in without much effort. The slight corbelling still visible on the interior of hut three, despite its uncertain status as roofed or open, rewards a close look.