Cross-inscribed stone, Inishshark, Co. Galway
Co. Galway |
Crosses & Monuments
On the south-eastern end of Inishshark, a small island off the Connemara coast that was permanently evacuated in 1960, a large stone block sits within the internal wall of a clochan.
Cut into its face is a simple incised cross, modest in scale but carefully positioned directly opposite the entrance of the building, so that anyone stepping inside would have faced it immediately. That placement feels deliberate, even confrontational in a quiet way, as though the cross was meant to be the first thing seen upon entering.
A clochan is a drystone corbelled hut, a type of early medieval structure associated with monastic and hermitic settlement throughout Ireland's western seaboard. This particular one sits within the western half of an ecclesiastical enclosure, the kind of bounded sacred space that would have defined the limits of a small religious community. Inishshark has traces of early Christian activity, and the inscribed stone fits into that context, a simple act of marking, of claiming a threshold as sacred. According to research by Kuijt and colleagues published in 2010, the stone and its cross are recorded at the south-eastern corner of the clochan, embedded in the wall rather than freestanding, which has helped preserve it from the Atlantic weather that has worn so much else on this exposed island.
Inishshark is uninhabited and lies to the west of Inishbofin, reachable only by arrangement with local boat operators. The island's remaining structures are unmanaged and scattered across rough ground, so finding the ecclesiastical enclosure requires some navigation and a tolerance for wind. The cross itself is easy to miss from the outside, given that it faces inward, but once inside the clochan, it sits at eye level on the opposing wall, small and worn but still legible.