Cross-slab, Corr Áille, Co. Kerry

Co. Kerry |

Crosses & Monuments

Cross-slab, Corr Áille, Co. Kerry

On the steep north-eastern slopes of Reenconnell, on the Dingle Peninsula, a large stone slab stands broken and, quite possibly, upside down.

It is not a casual oversight. The slab, measuring 2.48 metres in its visible length, is split into two pieces: the larger section remains upright in a mound of stones, while the smaller fragment lies loose beside it. Carved onto its eastern face are two crosses, one above the other, and it is the relationship between them that raises the interesting problem. The upper portion of the slab carries a Latin cross whose terminals bifurcate into rough semi-circles, but at the head those terminals open further into two large spiral motifs filling the spaces between the head and arms. That cross currently stands on its head, leading to the reasonable suspicion that whoever re-erected the slab did so inverted, reversing the original orientation of the carving.

The slab sits within a roughly oval, stone-walled enclosure on the eastern side of what is known as the Saint's Road, the ancient pilgrim route that climbs to the summit of Brandon Mountain. The enclosure belongs to a cluster of early Christian and later features: a clochaun (a dry-stone corbelled building of the kind associated with early monastic settlement in Ireland), two leachts (low rectangular cairns used for devotional purposes), the cross-slab itself, and some graves. The graves are thought to relate to the site's later use as a calluragh, a burial ground traditionally reserved for unbaptised infants and others excluded from consecrated ground. Two further clochauns lie just outside the enclosure to the north-east, built partly against its wall, one of them incorporating a souterrain, an underground stone-lined passage typically used for storage or refuge. The detail recorded by J. Cuppage in the 1986 Corca Dhuibhne archaeological survey gives a picture of a site layered across centuries, early monastic, then penitential, then quietly repurposed by communities with nowhere else to bury their dead.

The site is accessible from the Saint's Road itself, which pilgrims and walkers still follow towards Brandon Mountain. The enclosure and its stones are visible on the slope, though the terrain is steep and the ground uneven. The cross-slab rewards close attention: the lower cross, equal-armed with its bifurcated terminals and a short groove cut 9 centimetres below its lower arm, is distinct in character from the spiral-headed Latin cross above it, and standing in front of the stone it is worth pausing to consider which way up the carver ever intended it to be read.

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