Grave Yard, An Clochán, Co. Kerry

Co. Kerry |

Burial Grounds

Grave Yard, An Clochán, Co. Kerry

Above the village of Cloghane on the north side of the Dingle Peninsula, a graveyard has been accumulating the dead for the better part of a millennium, and the result is a place of considerable density and disorder.

Two ruined churches occupy the same ground, one built on top of the other, leaving almost no room for the living to move between the tombs. Of the 92 tombs recorded in a 2010 survey, 54 carry no memorial plaques at all, and the medieval section is further crowded with at least 113 small, unnamed grave markers. The ground slopes, the vegetation encroaches, and in places the internal earth has built up so high against the northern boundary wall that only twenty centimetres of stonework stands between a visitor and a two-metre drop into the trackway below.

The older of the two churches dates largely from the 13th century, its ivy-covered ruins sitting on the western shore of the inner reaches of Brandon Bay. In 1828 a First Fruits church, a Church of Ireland building funded under a programme of state grants for Protestant congregations in Ireland, was constructed directly on top of this earlier structure, and that building is now ruinous in turn. Architectural fragments from the 1828 church lie scattered across the site; eight of them have been informally incorporated into a grave setting. In front of the east window of the medieval church, at least three dressed stone fragments from the original window embrasure lie loose in the grass, with others likely concealed beneath it. The 19th century section of the graveyard, added to the east, contains rows of house-shaped and strong-box tombs arranged in what the surveyor Laurence Dunne described, with some precision, as contiguous rows of terraced houses of the dead.

The graveyard is reached by a narrow trackway at the northern end of the village, passing through a pair of rusty iron gates set between rendered sandstone piers. A squeeze-stile, a narrow gap in a boundary designed to admit people but not livestock, sits beside the right-hand pier. The medieval section is served by a partial gravelled perimeter path, which is advisable to keep to given the sloping and overgrown ground within. Mount Brandon fills the view to the south and south-east, while Brandon Bay opens to the north-east below.

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