Graveslab, Innisfallen, Co. Kerry

Co. Kerry |

Tombs & Memorials

Graveslab, Innisfallen, Co. Kerry

On a small island in Lough Leane, south of a roofless church once used by the abbot of an early Irish monastery, there lies a grave slab that tells you almost nothing.

No name, no date, no carved cross or knotwork. Just stone, shaped and smoothed, tapering from roughly sixty centimetres at the head to fifty at the foot, and somewhere between one point six and two metres long. The edges are chamfered, meaning they are cut at an angle rather than left square, which gives the slab a modest refinement without tipping into ornament. Whoever lies beneath it left no readable mark on the world, at least not here.

Innisfallen Island has a long monastic history. A community was established there in the seventh century, and the island became sufficiently important that a chronicle known as the Annals of Innisfallen was compiled and maintained there across several centuries. The Augustinian abbey that eventually came to occupy the island added its own architectural layers, and it is in the church of that abbey where three further plain grave slabs of similar character survive. The slab south of the Abbot's Church and the trio inside the abbey church share the same unadorned form, suggesting a local tradition of marking graves with simple, functional stones rather than elaborate monuments. Whether that reflects humility, economy, or simply the conventions of the community at a particular period is difficult to say.

The island is accessible by boat from Ross Castle on the Killarney lakeshore, and the monastic remains are spread across a relatively compact area, making the grave slabs easy to encounter once you are there. The slab south of the Abbot's Church sits in the open, and its plainness means it can be easy to overlook among the more immediately legible ruins nearby. It rewards a second look.

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Pete F
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