Historic town, Abbeylands, Co. Limerick

On the surface it looks like an ordinary County Limerick market town on the Tralee road, fourteen miles south-west of Limerick city. Look more carefully at the long, unbroken line of Main Street on the north bank of the river Deel, continuing as Church Street on the south side, and you begin to see a plan that is probably far younger than the medieval name suggests, laid down or reorganised sometime after the upheavals of the Desmond rebellion rather than in the centuries before it.

The name itself reaches back well before the Normans. It derives most likely from Rath Caola or Rath Gaela, meaning the fort of Coala or Gaela, and a ringfort still visible to the south of the town is thought to represent that original pre-Norman settlement. When the Normans arrived, the lands were granted by King John to Hamo de Valognes in 1199, though the property then passed through several hands, the Waspayl family in the early thirteenth century, then the Mautravers, and by the mid-fourteenth century into the possession of the Desmond Geraldines. The town scarcely surfaces in medieval records; its most vivid documentary appearance is in 1300, when the community contributed forty shillings towards a subsidy for the war in Scotland. Later still, in the early seventeenth century, Sir John Dowdall was granted a weekly Thursday market at what the documents call the high cross of Rathkeale, a term that almost certainly refers to a freestanding market cross rather than any road junction, since no significant crossroads cuts through the town centre. The market place recorded just east of the abbey on the Ordnance Survey map has since vanished entirely, replaced by a road leading into a housing estate.

The linear street plan, running north-east to south-west with smaller streets branching off to either side, is the clearest thing to read on a visit. The Fair Green lies to the north of the town, and the square in front of the Court House may have served as a later market space. Documentary evidence about the earlier buildings is thin; the Civil Survey mentions a stone house belonging to one Morrish Casey, though even its precise location within or outside the town boundary is uncertain. Rathkeale is the kind of place where the street layout itself is the artefact, worth walking end to end with that long, unresolved history in mind.