Historic town, Bawnoge, Co. Wicklow

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Historic town, Bawnoge, Co. Wicklow

Beneath a garden wall in Baltinglass, Co. Wicklow, lie the foundations of a tower house that was pulled apart in 1882 so that its stones could be used to build a rectory.

The structure had been known as the Abbot's castle, and its dismantling was a fairly routine act of Victorian practicality, the kind that quietly erased medieval fabric all across Ireland. What makes the site around it unusual is the layering of ambition and calamity compressed into a relatively small valley on the river Slaney, between Tinoranhill and Tuckmill Hill, where a Cistercian abbey, a burned town, a demolished castle, and a royal charter all occupy the same ground.

The Cistercian abbey of Baltinglass was founded in 1148, making it one of the earlier houses of that reforming continental order in Ireland. The Cistercians were noted builders and agriculturalists, and by 1541 the abbey's possessions included a water-mill and mill-race on the Slaney, recorded in an Inquisition of that year. The Dissolution of the monasteries ended all that, and by 1604 an Inquisition held in Newcastle, Co. Wicklow, records the burning of the whole town, a phrase that suggests Baltinglass had been caught in the turbulence of the Nine Years' War and its aftermath. Recovery was slow but deliberate. In 1617, the abbey lands were reconstituted as the manor of Baltinglass, complete with a Court-Baron and Court-Leet, the legal machinery of manorial governance, and a Thursday market and two annual fairs were formally instituted. Then, on 10 January 1663, Charles II directed that Baltinglass, which he described in the royal wording as 'an ancient village', should become a corporate town governed by a Sovereign. The Lord Chancellor, Sir Maurice Eustace, was at that point planning to build a parish church, houses for a minister and a schoolmaster, a bridge over the Slaney, and a market and schoolhouse. Whether all of this was ever fully realised is another question, but the moment captures something typical of Restoration-era Ireland: a town being formally invented on top of the ruins of something much older.

The most tangible remnant of the medieval period is the abbey itself, still partially standing. The tower house foundations, meanwhile, survive as a buried outline beneath a garden wall, visible if you know to look for them, a faint signature of a building that once carried the name of the Abbot's castle before it was cannibalised for more modern purposes.

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