Holy Well, Cill Maoilchéadair, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Holy Sites & Wells
A well that no longer holds water is an odd thing to seek out, yet this one, set in a field to the west of the road at Kilmalkedar on the Dingle Peninsula, retains something of its former gravity.
The well itself is dry, but its lintelled hollow, a small stone-lined depression capped with flat stone in the traditional manner, survives intact. Beside it stands an upright slab, 0.92 metres high, incised on its west face with a plain Latin cross. The two elements together, modest and weathered as they are, mark a place that people once came to with specific ailments in mind.
When the County Kerry Field Club visited in July 1948, they recorded that rounds were still being paid at the well for sore eyes and head trouble. "Rounds" refers to the devotional practice of circumambulating a sacred site a set number of times, often while reciting prayers, a ritual common at holy wells across Ireland from early Christian times into living memory. The Field Club also noted that many of the stones built into the surrounding field boundaries appeared to be architectural in character, suggesting that this ground may once have formed part of the Kilmalkedar ecclesiastical complex proper, rather than sitting apart from it. That complex, one of the most significant Early Christian and medieval sites on the Dingle Peninsula, occupies the western slopes of Reenconnell hill overlooking Smerwick Harbour, sheltered to the north and south by spurs of the ridge. By 1960, the folklorist Caoimhín Ó Danachair found the well reduced to what he called "a small shapeless erection of dry stone" with no surviving tradition attached to it. The cross-inscribed stone, at least, remained standing, its incised mark still legible on the west face.