Holy well, Kilduff, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Holy Sites & Wells
Near the head of the Kilduff valley on the Dingle Peninsula, a spring well called Tobar na Croise sits quietly outside the rhythm of active religious practice.
The rounds, a traditional form of devotional walking in which a pilgrim circuits a sacred site a set number of times while praying, had already ceased here three or four decades before the notes on it were compiled. What makes the place linger in the mind, though, is not its present silence but a particular object that may once have belonged to it: an ogham stone, now located in the neighbouring townland of Ballynahunt.
Ogham is an early medieval script, most commonly found carved along the edges of standing stones, in which letters are represented by a series of notches and strokes. The Ballynahunt stone is unusual in also bearing a carved cross, suggesting it was reused or reinterpreted within a Christian context. The folklorist Caoimhín Ó Danachair, writing in 1960, proposed that this stone was originally taken from Tobar na Croise itself. Whether or not that connection can be verified, the well had its own ritual life. Ó Danachair recorded the full observance in some detail: nine circuits of the well, made while reciting a rosary, performed on nine successive mornings before sunrise or evenings after sunset. The well was also believed to cure the "evil", a term used in Irish folk medicine to refer to a range of conditions, often understood as ailments caused by malign supernatural influence. By Ó Danachair's time the well was only visited occasionally; by the time of more recent surveys, the rounds had stopped altogether.