Huntington Castle, Clonegall, Co. Carlow
Co. Carlow |
Main Houses
The strangest room in this building is not upstairs among the panelled walls and ribbed ceilings, but down in the basement, where a Temple of Isis has been installed amid the older stonework.
It is an odd thing to find beneath a tower house built for defence, and it gives the place a layered quality: a building that began as a fortified dwelling and ended up, centuries later, hosting a shrine to an Egyptian goddess.
The core of the structure is a four-bay, three-storey tower house raised over a basement around 1625, with a projecting porch and a bowed section at the rear, the kind of compact, defensible residence built across Ireland in the early seventeenth century by families consolidating land in uncertain times. The formal gardens were laid out around 1675, with terraces, canals and yew walks, an ambitious scheme of the sort favoured by the landed gentry of the period, who liked their grounds to announce order and permanence even where the house itself still bore traces of a more defensive age. The building was substantially extended around 1880, when a seven-bay, two-storey wing was added complete with a conservatory, and the older tower was given a crenellated parapet and bartizans, small projecting turrets typically used for lookout or decorative effect, so that the Victorian additions deliberately echoed a castellated appearance rather than breaking from it. Inside, much of the earlier character survives: timber panelling, ribbed ceilings, and a staircase dated to around 1725, all suggesting a household that kept adapting the interior generation by generation rather than starting again. The stable complex and a group of detached brick outbuildings on site point to a working estate that needed housing for horses, produce and equipment alongside the main residence.
Anyone visiting should look for the contrast between eras that the building wears quite openly: the squat, thick-walled tower house facing off against the taller, more expansive Victorian wing grafted onto it, and the bartizans that pretend to a medieval watchfulness the house had largely left behind by the time they were built. The gardens reward slow walking rather than a quick circuit, since the canals and yew walks were laid out as a sequence of framed views rather than a single vista, and the yew itself, slow growing and long lived, means these plantings have had the better part of three and a half centuries to thicken into the dense green corridors visible today. The basement temple is worth seeking out precisely because it sits so incongruously within the older fabric of the tower house, a reminder that country houses in Ireland were rarely finished projects, but places continually reinterpreted by the people who lived in them.