Hut site, An Baile Breac, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Settlement Sites
On the lower western slopes of Brandon Mountain in County Kerry, a roughly circular enclosure sits in rough pasture, its defining stone wall now so faint it is barely readable in the landscape.
Inside, the footprints of two or three small stone huts survive in varying degrees of ruin, and beneath the floor of one of them, an entire underground structure waits in the dark. That combination, a domestic settlement above ground with a souterrain below, is quietly unusual, and the detail embedded in the remains repays careful attention.
A souterrain is an underground passage and chamber built of drystone masonry, roofed with stone slabs, and found across early medieval Ireland, most often associated with settlement sites. Here, the underground element consists of a short north-south passage, 2.6 metres long and just 0.8 metres wide, leading into a semi-circular chamber roughly 3.5 metres long and 1.6 metres high, the two sections set at right angles to each other. The chamber entrance is formed by two projecting jamb stones overlain by a pair of lintels with a deliberate gap of six to ten centimetres between them, an architectural detail closely matched in a souterrain at Kilcooly nearby. A low sill stone creates a step down into the chamber, which is now waterlogged, and an air-vent runs westward for over two metres from the chamber's western end, just below roof level. The whole thing was built to function. A rectangular whetstone recovered from the floor of the passage during work by P. Healy in 1979 is the only object recorded from the site, a small domestic tool suggesting the kind of everyday life that once moved between these huts and their underground annex.
Above ground, the picture is one of gradual erasure. The enclosure, internally around 18 to 19 metres across, is bisected by a later field wall that runs north to south, kinking westward at the centre to sit directly on top of the wall of the easternmost hut. The lower courses of that field wall are, in fact, the original hut wall reused. The eastern hut's outline survives partly as a stone and earth bank piled against the outer wall face, apparently to keep surface water out; a gap in that bank may be where the entrance once was. The western hut has collapsed into a spread of rubble, with only a short section of walling still traceable. The enclosure that once held it all together has nearly dissolved back into the hillside, its boundary surviving only as a faint suggestion in the grass.