Mass-rock, Shrone Beg, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Holy Sites & Wells
In the undulating pasture of Shrone Beg, County Kerry, there is a place where people once gathered in secret to practise their faith, and where now there is nothing to see at all.
The mass-rock here has vanished beneath overgrowth, its precise location surviving only in local memory rather than in any physical remains. That absence is itself telling. Mass-rocks were flat or table-like boulders used as improvised altars during the Penal Laws of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, when Catholic worship was suppressed under English legislation and priests were legally prohibited from celebrating Mass. Congregations met in remote fields, on hillsides, and at the edges of bogs, often posting lookouts against the possibility of discovery. The rocks they gathered around were rarely monumental; their significance was circumstantial and devotional rather than architectural, which is partly why so many have since disappeared or become untraceable.
What lingers at Shrone Beg is the landscape context. The site looks south towards The Paps of Dana, the twin rounded hills in the Derrynasaggart Mountains whose name refers to the goddess Anu, a figure from early Irish mythology associated with fertility and the land. That southward view across open country would have made the location both exposed and legible, the kind of terrain where an approaching patrol might be spotted in time. About 280 metres to the north stands a prehistoric standing stone, a separate monument entirely from a much earlier period, though the proximity is a reminder of how layered these quiet fields can be, with different kinds of significance accruing across millennia to the same unremarkable-looking ground.