Midden, Baile Na Leacan, Co. Kerry

Co. Kerry |

Settlement Sites

Midden, Baile Na Leacan, Co. Kerry

On the western shore of Brandon Bay, a cliff-face holds what may be one of the most quietly humbling archaeological traces on the Dingle Peninsula: roughly a dozen cockle shells pressed into dark soil, exposed by coastal erosion about 250 metres north of Cloghane.

It is not a monument in any conventional sense, and it is easy to imagine a walker passing it without a second glance.

A shell midden is essentially a refuse heap left by people who gathered and ate shellfish, and over time such deposits can accumulate into substantial archaeological records, preserving not just shells but animal bone, charcoal, and occasionally artefacts. This particular example is too small and too damaged for such richness. Recorded in J. Cuppage's 1986 archaeological survey of the Corca Dhuibhne region, the Dingle Peninsula, it was already described as being in very poor condition. The working theory, credited to A. McCarthy, is that the visible shells are the last surviving fragment of a once larger deposit, the rest having been lost to the sea or to erosion over an unknown stretch of time. The survey offers no date for when people were eating those cockles at this spot, which makes the site feel stranger rather than lesser: a remnant of a remnant, the edge of something whose full shape is gone.

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