Penitential station, Baile An Bhaoithín, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Holy Sites & Wells
At the foot of the eastern slopes of Croaghmarhin, tucked into the northern corner of a field, lies a site where people once walked barefoot circuits in penance, pausing at rough stone markers to pray.
The practice, known as "doing the rounds", involved walking a set path around sacred focal points, usually a holy well and associated stones, repeating prayers at each station. At Tobermalogga, known in Irish as Tobar na Molaige, those rounds were still being made at the start of the twentieth century, but had quietly ceased by 1960. What remains is an irregularly shaped area of mounds and slabs set on edge, the likely physical remnants of those penitential stations, along with a now-dry well whose covering slab is still in place. A hollow in front of it may be the silted-up bed of the spring stream that once fed it.
The most arresting object on the site is the carved cross-slab, standing just under a metre high on the western side of that hollow. Its eastern face carries a plain cross set within an irregular oval, with a small cross in each of the four quadrants, though the lower left is now barely legible. Short notches project outward from the circle at the side and lower arms of the main cross. Below the oval, two further cross motifs appear, and these are where the carving becomes genuinely unusual. One has upward-curving arms and resembles a triple-branched candelabrum; the other has downward-curving arms with a small dot pressed into the angles where the arms meet the shaft. The suggestion made in the Corca Dhuibhne archaeological survey of 1986 is that these two figures may represent the good and bad thieves crucified alongside Christ, an iconographic choice that would be rare on any early Irish stone. Around 1930, an underground passage was also discovered in an adjacent field, adding another layer of quiet strangeness to a corner of landscape that looks, at first glance, like nothing much at all.