Ringfort, Kildaree, Co. Galway
Co. Galway |
Ringforts
On a west-facing grassland slope in north County Galway, there is a ringfort that no longer looks like one.
The circular enclosure, roughly thirty metres across, was clear enough to be recorded on the first edition of the Ordnance Survey six-inch map, that meticulous mid-nineteenth-century undertaking which captured Ireland's landscape before so much of it changed. Today, no visible surface trace survives. The earthworks have been levelled or have simply subsided back into the ground, leaving nothing obvious for the eye to catch. What remains is a coordinate, a cartographic ghost, and something beneath the soil.
That something is a souterrain, an underground stone-lined passage or chamber of the kind commonly associated with early medieval ringforts in Ireland, typically used for storage, refuge, or both. Souterrains were built to be concealed and accessed discreetly, which perhaps explains why this one outlasted the fort above it. Ringforts themselves, known in Irish as raths or cashels depending on whether they were earthen or stone-built, were the dominant settlement form in early medieval Ireland, housing farming families within a banked and ditched enclosure. Thousands survive across the country in varying states of preservation; many more, like this one at Kildaree, exist now only as absences, places where archaeology persists underground while the surface has been returned to ordinary use.