Ringfort (Rath), Gallaras, Co. Kerry

Co. Kerry |

Ringforts

Ringfort (Rath), Gallaras, Co. Kerry

Some archaeological sites announce themselves with earthworks, standing stones, or at least a commemorative plaque.

This one offers almost nothing to see, which is precisely what makes it curious. Near Gallaras on the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, a field that appears entirely ordinary may once have enclosed an early medieval settlement, its circular boundary long since flattened into the landscape and readable now only as a gentle curve in an old field fence line.

The site came to wider attention in 1979, when the removal of a field fence revealed a souterrain, an underground stone-lined passage or chamber typically associated with early Irish ringforts and used variously for storage, refuge, or ventilation of dwellings above. The souterrain was inspected and recorded by Kelly in the early 1980s but is no longer visible at the surface. What remains as indirect evidence is the curving outline of the field boundary, noted on the second edition Ordnance Survey map, which suggests the ghost of a former circular enclosure, the defining feature of a rath or ringfort. Such enclosures were the standard form of rural settlement in Ireland from roughly the early centuries AD through to the Norman period, and thousands survive in varying states of preservation across the country. Here, there are no surface indications of the monument itself, only that suggestive arc in the boundary, and a description compiled by J. Cuppage for the Corca Dhuibhne archaeological survey of 1986.

For a visitor, there is little conventional reward. The souterrain cannot be seen, and nothing marks the spot as significant. What lingers instead is the idea that the ordinary field grid of rural Kerry is riddled with absences like this one, places where a curve in a ditch or an anomaly in the hedgerow is all that survives of a farmstead that was already old when the Normans arrived in Ireland.

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