Rock art, Tuar An Chladáin, Co. Kerry

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Settlement Sites

Rock art, Tuar An Chladáin, Co. Kerry

On the lower southern slopes of Coomacarrea mountain in County Kerry, two large tabular blocks of rock sit just two metres apart in a stretch of boggy ground between tributaries of the Owroe river.

Neither announces itself loudly; they are low, weathered, and half-claimed by moss. But look closely at the upper surface of the western block, and you find something that has outlasted every other human mark on this landscape: a dense arrangement of prehistoric carvings that nobody has fully explained.

The decorated surface of the western block slopes gently upward to the south-west and carries a vocabulary of motifs typical of Atlantic rock art, a tradition dating broadly to the Neolithic and early Bronze Age, found across Ireland, Britain, and parts of western Europe. Cup-and-ring marks, the most recognisable form, consist of a shallow circular depression, the cup, surrounded by one or more incised concentric rings. Here the largest example reaches nearly half a metre in diameter, an unusually generous scale. Around it, the surface accumulates further complexity: a second cup-and-ring on the north-west side, two cupmarks and a densely pocked area enclosed by a ring on the north-east, ten additional cupmarks scattered across the stone, two more cup-and-rings, and three straight grooves, one of which ends in a cupmark as though the line was always heading somewhere specific. At the south-east base of this block lies a loose slab, roughly 1.7 metres long, its upper face carrying another cup-and-two-rings motif alongside three depressions that appear natural in origin but whose outlines have been deliberately enhanced by pocking. Whether that enhancement was functional or aesthetic, nobody can say with certainty. Close by, a second sandstone boulder sits on the south-east side of the main rock and may once have been part of it, a possible fracture connecting the two. Its own decorated surface, weathered and partially obscured by moss, carries a cup-and-two-ring motif with a distinctive squared outer ring. The site was surveyed and published by Aidan O'Sullivan and Jerry Sheehan as part of their 1996 archaeological survey of the Iveragh Peninsula, and later revisited and updated by Alison McQueen and Vera Rahilly.

The stones sit at around 147 metres above sea level on a south-east facing slope, with the Owroe and Inny river valleys opening out below. A stream runs about thirty metres to the north-west of the smaller boulder. The moss that softens the edges of several motifs is a practical reminder that the carvings are shallow, some only a few millimetres deep, and that timing and angle of light both matter considerably when trying to read the surface.

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