Saint Columbkille's Church (in ruins), Glencolumbkille, Co. Clare

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Saint Columbkille’s Church (in ruins), Glencolumbkille, Co. Clare

What you find at Glencolumbkille in County Clare is less a church than a carefully stratified argument in stone: one pointed east gable still standing to something approaching its original height, two short stubs of wall running off it, and then, where the rest of the building ought to be, a graveyard that has quietly absorbed everything else.

The west wall is gone entirely, its outer face now formed by the later graveyard enclosure, its inner face rebuilt at some unspecified modern point in a noticeably inferior style. The ruin, in other words, has been colonised, incorporated, and partially replaced, and the people buried within it seem entirely unbothered by the distinction between inside and outside.

The church is thought to date originally to the late eleventh or early twelfth century, though by the time the antiquarian Thomas Westropp examined it in 1913 it had clearly been through at least one significant round of alteration. He identified a fifteenth-century Gothic pointed doorway, since vanished, that had been inserted into the south wall, and suggested that the east window was reset at around the same period. That window survives, a narrow light with well-dressed stones along its base and north side, set into an embrasure whose head and north jamb are now missing. The surrounding stonework on the outer face is noticeably rougher, the smaller stones suggesting later patching around the reset opening. By 1839, a written account described the building as roughly five centuries old at that point and already reduced to the east gable and south wall; the south wall itself now buckles slightly at the east end and fades to a low earthen scarp at the west. Westropp also recorded a fragment of a conical sandstone quern sitting outside the north-west corner; by 1992 it had disappeared. Only one of the projecting handle-stones, or corbels, he noted in the east gable still survives, at the north-east corner.

The interior is where the site becomes genuinely strange. Within the roofless shell, fine dressed stonework survives in both the north-east and south-east corners, each housing a tomb. The south-east one belongs to the O'Brien family and dates to around 1800 or shortly after. The rest of the floor is occupied by grave-slabs, markers, and headstones, and near the centre a door jamb has been repurposed as a grave-marker, propped upright in the ground as though nothing about this is unusual. Outside, against the south face of the east gable, there is a railed grave with a commemorative plaque. The building has been a ruin for the better part of two centuries, but it has never stopped being used.

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