Saint John's Well, An Fearann, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Holy Sites & Wells
Tucked into the backyard of a dwelling-house on The Mall in Dingle town, a small spring well sits in a state of quiet neglect, its modern concrete cover now broken up and scattered.
Beside it stands a pillar stone just 0.41 metres high, carved with a Latin cross whose shaft ends in a down-turned arc and whose arms have expanded terminals. Beneath the cross, someone has added the initials FD, probably in the twentieth century. It is a modest arrangement, easy to overlook, and yet this was once the site of an elaborate devotional practice observed on the 24th of June, the feast of Saint John the Baptist.
The folklorist Caoimhín Ó Danachair recorded the rituals associated with the well in 1960, drawing on local memory of customs that had apparently fallen out of use around 1900. Pilgrims would kneel at the well and recite five Paters and five Aves, then say a full rosary while making three circuits of the well, finishing with a prayer to the patron. The complete ritual required this sequence to be repeated nine times in total, with pebbles used to keep count of the rounds. Such circuits, known in Irish as turas or rounds, are a well-documented feature of holy well devotion across Ireland, often preserving patterns of movement that predate Christianity. The thorn tree on which rags were traditionally hung as votive offerings is now gone. A guardian trout was said to inhabit the well, the kind of legend found at many Irish holy wells: water drawn from the spring could not be brought to the boil, and when people investigated they found a trout, whereupon they returned both the fish and the water. Complicating the site further is the matter of an ogham stone, an early medieval stone bearing an archaic Irish script of notched lines, which was apparently found in an adjacent wall and removed to somewhere near the railway station by a man named Curran. No further trace of it has been established, and there is some uncertainty about whether it was a separate stone or the cross-pillar itself, though no ogham scores are visible on the pillar that remains.