Settlement cluster, Keel, Co. Mayo

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Settlement Sites

Settlement cluster, Keel, Co. Mayo

At the southeastern end of a steep valley on Achill Island, where the land flattens out before Keem Bay, a community of roughly forty households once occupied a stretch of ground measuring little more than two hundred metres across.

Today almost nothing marks the spot. A handful of grass-covered rectangular footings survive near a disused coast guard station, and they are easy to walk past without registering what they represent: a vanished village, deliberately erased.

The settlement appears clearly on the Ordnance Survey six-inch map of 1838, with houses grouped in small linear clusters along the banks of two branching streams in the northern half of the site, and a larger group of around nineteen houses to the south. By the 1920 revision of the same map, it is gone entirely. Excavations carried out by the Achill Archaeological Field School over several seasons between 2009 and 2016 investigated two of the southern houses in detail. Both were permanently occupied family homes rather than booley dwellings, the seasonal shelters used during summer grazing. In Irish rural tradition, a booley was a temporary structure occupied only while cattle were moved to upland pasture; these houses were something altogether more settled. One measured roughly 8.75 metres by 4.55 metres, with drystone walls faced with stone and filled with an earthen core, a hearth at the northwest end, and a stone-lined drain at the southeast end that appears to have served a cattle area within the same building, a typical arrangement in vernacular Irish housing of the period. Ceramics recovered from both houses, including creamware, pearlware, and earthenware, point to occupation in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. Crucially, excavators found evidence that both structures had been deliberately demolished and their walls levelled, rather than simply abandoned. One explanation, consistent with the timing, is that the settlement was cleared as part of land improvement schemes carried out in the 1850s and 1860s by Captain Boycott, the land agent whose name later entered the English language during the Land League agitation of 1880. Boycott built his own house on an elevated terrace to the northwest of where the settlement had stood.

The best-preserved wall footings lie on relatively level ground immediately to the northwest of the old coast guard station, which now reads as the dominant structure at this end of the valley. The footings are low and grass-covered, and without context they could pass for natural undulations in the ground, which is part of what makes them worth pausing over.

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