Tobermochulla, Fortane Beg, Co. Clare
Co. Clare |
Holy Sites & Wells
There is a holy well in County Clare that you cannot actually see.
The ground gives no clear sign of it; what you find instead is a waterlogged slope in a patch of native woodland, springs rising from the earth and pooling into one another, the surface churned by livestock, the whole area softened into a kind of slow, persistent seep. The well dedicated to St Mochuille sits at the eastern edge of the wood, on a south-easterly facing slope, and it registers more as a condition of the landscape than as any discrete feature.
Holy wells in Ireland were, and in many cases still are, sites of religious devotion, where people would perform stations, a set of prescribed prayers and movements carried out at specific points around the well or its surroundings. Writing in 1908 to 1909, the antiquarian T. J. Westropp recorded that stations were still being performed at this well in the townland then written as Fertanbeg, noting it as a second well dedicated to St Mochuille in the area. The saint's name is preserved in the well's Ordnance Survey name, Tobermochulla, which appears on all the historic OS mapping of the area. Thirty-four metres to the south-west lies a children's burial ground, a cillín, the kind of unconsecrated ground where, under older Catholic practice, unbaptised infants were interred apart from the main churchyard. The proximity of the two sites is not unusual; such wells and burial grounds are often found in close company across the Irish countryside, both occupying a liminal space between the sacred and the unofficial.