(Site of) Church, Kilnagrange, Co. Waterford
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Churches & Chapels
There is a field in Kilnagrange, Co. Waterford, where a church once stood, and then a graveyard, and then nothing at all. The site sits in pasture at the bottom of a small stream valley, and it is not visible at ground level. No stone breaks the grass, no outline betrays a foundation. The place is, in the most literal sense, an absence.
It was probably the parish church of Fews, a congregation whose building had fallen into dereliction by the late sixteenth century. That much is noted by the historian Power. But dereliction alone does not explain the completeness of the disappearance. When the scholar John O'Donovan passed through the area in the early nineteenth century, as part of the great topographical survey that would map and record Ireland's placenames and antiquities, he found that by 1840 both the church and its associated graveyard had been removed without trace. Removed, not simply collapsed or overgrown. Someone, at some point, cleared the site so thoroughly that even the dead left no visible mark. About 250 metres to the south-east, a natural spring is still recognised locally as a holy well, a designation that in Ireland typically signals long, pre-Christian continuity of use, a source of water that communities returned to across centuries regardless of what faith or institution nominally presided over it. That the well survives while the church does not is, in its quiet way, a telling inversion.