Toberagrahig, Dromore, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Holy Sites & Wells
On the north shore of Kenmare Bay, in sloping woodland above the water, a hollow has been cut into the rock.
It is small, hemispherical, roughly forty centimetres across, and to pass it without knowing what it was, you might take it for nothing more than a natural depression. Locally, though, it is known as Tobar an Ghrathaigh, a holy well, and the water that collects in it has long been considered to have curative properties.
Holy wells in Ireland are among the most persistent and quietly complex features of the ritual landscape, sites where pre-Christian practice and Catholic devotion folded together over centuries, often marked by little more than a spring or a stone. At Toberagrahig, the Ordnance Survey Name Books recorded that rounds were performed here on Saturdays, the traditional pattern of circumambulation associated with many such sites. The Schools' Collection gathered by the Irish Folklore Commission added a different detail, noting that the well was also visited on Good Friday, placing it within the Christian calendar. The two observances need not have been in tension; many wells attracted both weekly practice and seasonal pilgrimage, the two traditions running alongside one another without contradiction.