Toberaroon, An Ghairfeanaigh, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Holy Sites & Wells
A well named for a secret is already an unusual thing, and Tobar an Rúin, on the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, carries that strangeness quietly.
Known also as Tobar Ghobnait, the site has two names, two associations, and now something close to two states of existence: the original field in which it sat has been reclaimed for agricultural use, and the spring itself is no longer visible from the surface in any obvious way. Yet a recent inspection found it still present, tucked into a dense willow copse, a small clear spring flowing out into a nearby stream.
The well was a place of active religious practice, visited on Easter Sunday as part of the rounds that were once common at holy wells across Ireland. A holy well pattern, as these gatherings were known, typically involved prayer, circumambulation of the site, and sometimes offerings left at the water's edge. At Toberaroon, this custom persisted until at least 1960, documented by Ó Danachair in that year. The dual dedication is notable: Tobar an Rúin translates as "well of the secret", while Tobar Ghobnait links the site to Saint Gobnait, a figure associated with bees, healing, and a cluster of sacred sites across Munster. How or when those two names came to attach themselves to the same spring is not recorded.
The site sits in An Ghairfeanaigh, in the Irish-speaking district of Corca Dhuibhne on the western tip of the peninsula. The willow growth that now surrounds it may itself be a marker of the spring's persistence, since willows tend to follow water even where field drainage has otherwise altered the ground. The spring is easy to miss, which is perhaps fitting for a well whose name has always suggested something held back.