Tobereleesh, Knoppoge, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Holy Sites & Wells
A well that goes by at least four names is already doing something unusual.
Marked on the Ordnance Survey maps of 1840-41 and 1914 as Tobereleesh, a rendering of the Irish Tobar Eilís meaning well of Eilís, this spring in north Kerry is also known locally as Knoppoge well, St Brigid's well, and Tobar an Leighis, the well of the healing. That last name is perhaps the most revealing. The water here is credited with curing both bodily ailments and mental illness, and the tradition of visiting it for those purposes is still alive. What makes the place particularly distinctive is a reported sign of whether the cure has taken: a golden fish, visible in the water only to those who are about to recover.
The well sits beside a circular earthen enclosure, and the path used for rounds, the ritual circuits performed by pilgrims, takes in both the well and the mound together. A patron who visits pays three rounds, reciting the rosary during each circuit. Folklore collected from Ballyduff School, preserved in the Schools' Collection, sets out the practice with pleasing specificity: Friday visits are for general health, Saturday visits are for ailments of the head. Those completing rounds would leave behind a medal, a picture, or a bead near the water. The tradition also holds that St Brigid herself passed through Kerry and stopped at this well, which places the site within the wider network of Brigidine holy wells found across Ireland. A modern shrine has since been erected just across from the well, a recent addition to a landscape where the ritual activity appears to be centuries old.