Graveyard, Dublin South City, Co. Dublin
Co. Dublin |
Burial Grounds
Somewhere beneath the offices and pavements of Dublin's south city, wedged between Golden Lane, Chancery Lane, and Ship Street Great, lie the remains of 272 people buried over a stretch of roughly five centuries.
No church marks the spot above ground, no graveyard wall is visible, and the stone tablet that once announced the entrance from Great Ship Street had become entirely illegible even by the mid-twentieth century. By 1944, what had survived as a school playground, with tombstones still standing around its walls, was repurposed as a timber store by a firm called Messrs Dockrells. The place had, by increments, simply vanished into the city.
The church of St Michael le Pole, whose name derives from a nearby mill pond or pool that also gave its name to an old city gate on Bride Street, appears to have been an active ecclesiastical site from as early as the 8th century AD. Excavations carried out by Kieran Campbell and Margaret Gowen in 1980, and continued in 1981 and again between 2004 and 2005, revealed three broad phases of occupation: pre-12th-century burials and structural features including postholes and gullies; a 12th-century stone church with foundations for an adjoining round tower belfry, a tall, tapering stone structure typical of early Irish monasteries and used here as a bell tower; and a later phase in which the church was converted into a schoolhouse around 1706 and an almshouse by 1787, before being replaced by a red-brick school building in 1900. The 272 burials uncovered during excavations on the Golden Lane site, provisionally dated to around AD 700 to 1200, were arranged in the manner typical of early Christian Irish cemeteries, extended on their backs with heads to the west, and many included ear-muff stones, flat stones placed beside the skull, and plank-lined graves. Stick pins found in association with some burials suggest interment continued into the 11th and 12th centuries, spanning both the pre-Viking and Hiberno-Norse periods of Dublin's development. The church itself survived as a place of worship until the late 17th century. A round tower attached to the site was still standing in 1766, when the artist Gabriel Beranger recorded it in a watercolour now held by the National Library of Ireland; the tower was demolished after storm damage in 1775. Among the notable figures associated with the school that occupied the site was the Latin school where Henry Grattan and John Fitzgibbon, later Earl of Clare, were educated together.
There is nothing to see at the site today in the conventional sense. The archaeological deposits were preserved in situ beneath new development when the former GE Capital Woodchester Bank complex was demolished in the early 2000s, with the church and graveyard footprint specifically exempted from basement construction. The entry from Great Ship Street retains a tablet, though it has long been unreadable from ground level. The site appears on Bernard De Gomme's map of 1673 and John Rocque's map of 1756 for anyone who wants to trace its outline against the modern streetscape, and Beranger's watercolour, accessible through the National Library of Ireland's online catalogue, gives the clearest impression of what stood here before the city finally closed over it.