Clochan, Cill Mhic An Domhnaigh, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Settlement Sites
On the lower south-eastern slopes of Mount Eagle, above Ventry Harbour and Dingle Bay, there is a place where thirteen tiny stone chambers once clustered inside a single oval enclosure.
The site is known as Cathair na Maoilinne, and almost nothing of it is legible to the eye today. The chambers in question were clochans, the corbelled dry-stone cells associated with early monastic and hermitic settlement in the west of Ireland, built without mortar by layering stones inward until they form a self-supporting dome or vault. What is unusual here is not just the number gathered within one enclosure but their scale. The smallest measured only 1.29 metres in diameter, barely large enough to lie down in.
When the antiquarian R.A.S. Macalister recorded the site in 1899, he found an oval stone-walled enclosure measuring 62 metres by 43 metres, containing thirteen of these chambers in a variety of plans, some circular, some oval, some rectangular, some D-shaped, including two conjoined pairs. A rock shelter and a possible further clochan lay roughly 14 metres to the south. None of the chambers exceeded 2.66 metres in their longest dimension. By the time J. Cuppage described the site for the Dingle Peninsula Archaeological Survey published in 1986, the enclosure had softened into an ill-defined area of roughly 40 metres diameter, its southern boundary reduced to a faint bank of earth and stone, its northern edge to a low scarp between half a metre and a metre high. Only three mounds of collapsed stonework survive in the north-west quadrant to mark where the chambers stood.
The rock shelter to the south remains the most legible feature on the ground. It measures 4 metres by 2 metres internally and is partly shaped by a ruined wall and partly by natural outcropping rock. Immediately to its east, a short run of walling, 1.6 metres long and 0.6 metres high, may represent what survives of the northern side of another clochan. The site sits in rough pastureland, and the view it commands across the bay gives some sense of why early communities chose these exposed hillside positions, open to the sky and to the sea in equal measure.