Holy well, Mortlestown, Co. Limerick
Co. Limerick |
Holy Sites & Wells
A holy well that has forgotten it is a holy well is a peculiar thing.
At Mortlestown in County Limerick, there survives a site that was once documented, debated, and deemed worthy of cartographic recognition, yet which has since slipped entirely from local memory. No pattern day, no votive offerings, no lingering tradition of pilgrimage. Just a name on an old map, and the traces of a bureaucratic argument about how to spell it.
The paper trail begins with the Ordnance Survey. The 1840 edition of the map records the site simply as Tobereen, a diminutive of the Irish tobar, meaning well. By the 1928 edition, the name had been revised to Tobar Fhionain, suggesting an association with a saint named Fionán, though the original surveyors themselves seemed uncertain about this. A note preserved in the Ordnance Survey Name Books, attributed to the scholar John O'Donovan and initialled J.O'D., expresses the view that the correct name was Tobereen rather than Toberania, a variant spelling that had evidently been floated. O'Donovan also recommended that the site be engraved in Old English lettering on the map, the convention used to mark holy wells and ancient monuments, suggesting he considered it genuinely significant. An alternative Irish name recorded alongside was Tubbereen als. Pauderaugha, glossed in the Name Books as meaning something close to "the little well for prayer." The folklorist Caoimhín Ó Danachair, writing in 1955, drew together these details but noted plainly that by his time there was no longer any tradition of a holy well at the site at all.
What that means in practice for anyone curious enough to look is that the physical well, if it survives at all, would not announce itself. Holy wells in Ireland are often modest features, sometimes no more than a stone-lined spring or a slight depression in the ground, occasionally marked by a nearby tree hung with cloth or medals, though here there is no reason to expect even that. The Mortlestown site offers no guarantee of anything visible or findable, and the local knowledge that would once have guided a visitor has, by Ó Danachair's account, long since dissolved. The interest lies less in standing at a particular spot than in following the documentary trail itself, the squabble over orthography, the question of whether something deserves to be called sacred, and the strange way a place can be officially named and then quietly unmemorialised.