Megalithic tomb, An Tulaigh, Co. Kerry

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Megalithic Tombs

Megalithic tomb, An Tulaigh, Co. Kerry

On the lower southern slopes of Aghatubrid mountain in County Kerry, a megalithic tomb sits so deeply embedded in boggy ground that its interior floods with water.

It is not ruined so much as slowly swallowed, the peat creeping up around slabs that were already ancient when the bog began to form. The site abuts a rocky outcrop marked on Ordnance Survey maps as Carrigaphuca, a name that translates roughly as the rock of the púca, the shape-shifting spirit of Irish folklore. Whether that name attached to the outcrop before or after the tomb was forgotten is unknown, but the pairing has a certain logic.

The tomb is a megalithic chamber, the type of stone-built burial structure erected across Ireland during the Neolithic period, typically between roughly 4000 and 2500 BC. Orthostats, the large upright stones that form the walls of such chambers, define its interior on the northeast side, while a single outwardly inclining slab makes up the southwest wall. That leaning slab is 1.8 metres long and roughly half a metre thick; if it were still fully upright, it would stand about 0.75 metres high. A large, irregularly shaped capstone, 2 metres long and 2.5 metres wide, rests across the end-stone and the two side-stones, covering a chamber that opens to the northwest. One orthostat partially closes the entrance at a right angle to the second side-stone, giving the whole structure an asymmetry that the compilers of the Iveragh peninsula archaeological survey, A. O'Sullivan and J. Sheehan, described as a skewed rear.

What makes the setting stranger still is the evidence of organised land use that predates even the bog's growth. A series of pre-bog walls runs across the slope in the immediate vicinity, several of them still surviving up to a metre above the current bog surface. One wall runs the full length of the slope but stops, deliberately, at the tomb. Whoever built or maintained those field boundaries understood that the tomb was there and chose to work around it, leaving a gap in their otherwise continuous boundary. The bog has since buried the connection between those two acts of construction, but the gap in the wall remains.

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