Midden, Illauntannig, Co. Kerry
Co. Kerry |
Settlement Sites
As the cashel wall on Illauntannig slowly gives way to Atlantic erosion, it has begun to reveal something older than itself: a deposit of shells, animal bones, split and burnt stones, and flecks of charcoal buried in the ground beneath or beside the wall.
This is a midden, essentially a refuse heap left by people who ate, cooked, and processed materials on this spot long ago. What makes it quietly compelling is the ambiguity at its core. Archaeologists cannot say with certainty whether the midden predates the cashel wall and was subsequently built over, or whether it accumulated just outside the enclosure. The erosion that exposed it has also disturbed it, so the stratigraphic evidence that might have settled the question is no longer legible.
Illauntannig is the largest of the Magharee Islands, a small scatter of land off the northern tip of the peninsula dividing Brandon Bay and Tralee Bay in County Kerry. The island is dominated by a remarkable Early Christian monastic settlement enclosed within a cashel, a dry-stone enclosure wall of considerable strength. Within that wall lies a dense assembly of structures: two small oratories, three beehive huts (corbelled stone cells of a type associated with early Irish monasticism), a souterrain (an underground stone-lined passage, typically used for storage or refuge), three leachts (low stone cairns used as penitential or commemorative monuments), a burial ground, and a stone cross. Objects recovered from within the enclosure include three cross-slabs, a bullaun stone (a boulder with a rounded hollow, often associated with early Christian ritual), a hand-bell, and fragments of five quern-stones used for grinding grain. A second bullaun stone sits close to the shoreline about a hundred metres to the south. The midden, then, sits within a landscape already layered with centuries of devotional and domestic activity, and the question of its relationship to the cashel wall is part of a broader uncertainty about how this settlement grew and changed over time.